Dermatologist reveals beginner’s guide to layering serums: Here’s what to mix and what to avoid

Get expert tips on layering serums to improve your skincare routine. Find out which serums you can mix for best results.

Serums are highly concentrated products that are formulated to deliver active ingredients to the skin to address specific skin concerns, such as pigmentation, fine lines, loss of firmness, and dull skin. Although the benefits of using serums are well established, layering serums to achieve these benefits poses major challenges due to chemical interactions and skin tolerance.

What is the best serum to layer?

The overall strategy for layering serums is to apply the serums from the thinnest to the thickest and identify the appropriate amount of time for each active ingredient. “A water-based serum, such as vitamin C or niacinamide, should be applied first, followed by a slightly thicker product,” dermatologist Dr. Varshini Reddy tells Healthshots. These may include peptide or oil-based serums. The tiering order must be correct for each active.

oil for skin
For a glassy look, try using vitamin C and glycerin. Image courtesy: Adobe Stock
  1. vitamin C

An antioxidant that has whitening properties and protects the skin from oxidation. The best time to use vitamin C is in the morning when your skin can protect itself from environmental factors. “To reduce sensitivity, beginners use a lower concentration and gradually increase the concentration,” says Dr. Reddy. Additionally, alternative skin antioxidants are available for those who are sensitive to vitamin C.

2. Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

It has many benefits for your skin, from barrier repair to sebum control. “Its use does not interact adversely with other creams and serums containing other active ingredients, such as vitamin C,” says the doctor. Niacinamide works very well both during the day and at night.

3. Retinoids

These are the gold standard in anti-aging. Retinoids increase skin cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and help reduce fine lines and pigmentation. “Retinoids should be used in the evening because they are photosensitive and should be used with caution to minimize irritation,” says the doctor. We recommend starting with 2-3 times a week. Do not use chemical exfoliants on the same day as using retinoids.

4. Peptides

These are short chains of amino acids that signal the skin to synthesize collagen and support firmness. “They are generally lightweight and can be mixed with most serums, such as antioxidants and retinoids,” says the expert. Can be used for morning or night care.

anti-aging treatment
Peptides can be used in the morning or at night. Image courtesy: Adobe Stock

Layer your serums from thinnest to thickest and be sure to seal in your moisturizer to keep the active ingredients locked in. “By introducing only one new active ingredient at a time, you can monitor skin tolerance and minimize potential irritation,” suggests Dr. Reddy.

How do you layer your skin care?

An example of a layering routine might be taking vitamin C, niacinamide, and peptides in the morning, followed by a moisturizer and broad-spectrum sunscreen. “In this case, you may want to use niacinamide, retinoids (two to three times a week), AHA/BHA-based toners and serums, peptides, and moisturizers,” the experts say. Water-based serums increase the penetration and effectiveness of other active ingredients, so hydration is important.

What are the effects of repeated skin care?

Overall, layering serums can significantly improve the condition of your skin if applied in the right order, in the right concentration, and at the right time. “Knowing the properties of each active and following evidence-based layering principles will safely optimize a patient’s routine to improve texture, brightness, and overall skin health,” says the dermatologist.

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